Build your Own Programming Cable
by John Miklor
Frustrated with that generic programming cable?
You purchased a radio and programming cable, loaded the software, and that’s as far as you’ve gotten. You’re fighting with error messages:
Now you do what many owners do. Put the radio in the drawer to be worked on later. This is like buying a rollaway treadmill and putting it in the closet until the next time you want to exercise. (NOT gonna happen)
But wait, yours has the company name and logo right on the cable.
There are a few options available, such as an FTDI cable. It’s truly Plug ‘n Play, and costs about $20.
But here’s a project that just might solve the issue for around $2. All you need is a small flat blade screwdriver, a soldering pencil, and a CP2102 board.
The CP2102 SINGLE-CHIP USB TO UART BRIDGE is a USB to TTL UART chip. What?
Let’s start with that original cable.
Take a small screw driver and pry the open the case from the back where the cable enters.
It should only be snapped together.
Unsolder the 3 wires connected to the board.
Solder the 3 wires to the corresponding terminals on the new board.
Note 1: Some boards may have the TxD and RxD reversed. If it doesn’t work the first time, reverse the two wires. No damage has been done.
Note 2: Some boards have pins on the back requiring small connectors. You can either remove the pins, solder to them, or use the connectors. Whatever floats your boat.
If the driver is labeled CH340 instead of CP210x in Device Manager, that’s not a problem. Both chips are designed to do the same thing.
But I don’t have a Cable
If you don’t have a generic cable, you can use 2.5 and 3.5mm stereo jacks. Here are the pin outs, and what Jim’s (KC9HI) cable looks like.
If you are adventurous, try retrofitting the new board inside the original plastic housing. This will require a Dremel tool, X-Acto knife, Glue, and some patience, but it can be done.
If the board only has 5 terminals instead of 6, it’s not an issue. You only need GND, TX and RX.
Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool blinking lights.
Note 3: If you are trying to retrofit the board inside an existing shell, the red board below is a bit shorter and easier to fit.
For a dollar or so more, you can find the same boards in a metal case.
What’s the Advantage
– First and Foremost, it works. Take the radio out of the drawer, program it and have some fun.
– Next, it only cost around $2 to save the generic cable from the trash.
– Very Important – Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and someone says they can’t get their cable to work, tell them they can build their own, just as you did.
I hope you had fun with this project. It’s super simple and very rewarding. I’ve made several and never had a failure. Say goodbye to driver issues.
My thanks to Jim KC9HI for his input on this project